Tool Time with Metalchik

POSTED BY Victoria Tillotson, 17 September 2007

So much for my Metalchik ode to Oliver Twist. Seriously, tools are the most important, and most debated, aspect of any jewelry making. So dizzyingly diverse is the array of jewelry tools that it’s enough to drive a jeweler to distraction. How many of us have gone to a store to buy tools only to leave confused and flustered by the competing brands, styles, and opinions from the staff? I know I have. And I am not the only one: time and time again my students complain of being overwhelmed by the sheer number of tools available and not being able to sort out what is essential.

In that vein, I began offering to students who want to set up a studio at home my comprehensive, must-have list of tools. I also talk about where to spend your hard-earned dough, and when to save it for more metal! Now I’m going to share it with you. Yes, there are many tools. I would be totally happy to hear from readers about short cuts and tips to cut out some of the items listed! Email me!

So if you are game, read on...the list is long, but once you sort through it, it will REALLY get you started. Print it out and get thee on the phone to Rio Grande and become the Metalchik you are!!

My list is based on my expertise, which is in metalsmithing and fabrication. I don’t know beads or PMC, so ask Tammy about that! LOL

Finally, MY favorite place on the web for jewelry info is Ganoksin.com. It's written by jewelry pros and has detailed info need EVEN if you are a beginner. Check out their Bench Tips and Beginners' Corner sections for awesome ideas.

 

Tools and equipment for a good set-up at home

- mini torch (above - Blazer is best) or acetylene torch (I don’t recommend acetylene in an apartment-it’s flammable and violates both renters and co-op home insurance policies-ask me for more details if you’re sure you want acetylene. For those of you with independent houses, it’s fine).
- butane for mini torch
- kiln shelf to protect surface
- soldering block and/or charcoal
- AA tweezers
- soldering tweezers
- tripod and mesh
- third hand and locking tweezers
- soldering pick

- bezel shears for cutting solder (wire cutters also work)
- solder: hard, medium, easy
- flux such as Dandix, Gel Flux, or Battern’s
- small brushes (watercolor ones are ideal - buy cheap ones as they will get wrecked)
- yellow ochre
- paper clips and pins
- binding wire (optional)

Pickle
- crock pot
- Sparex #2 to make pickle
- copper tongs
- tea balls for small pieces
- brass washout brush
- old toothbrushes

- Fordham Flex Shaft (the best) - Dremel is also OK
- rubber wheels in various hardness and shapes (white, black, blue, pink)
- mandrels for wheels
-grinding wheels
- buffs for final polishing

(My favorites)

- round nose pliers
- chain nose pliers
- wire cutters
- bench block
- large files in cuts 1 through 3 - half-round are most versatile
- file handles
- small file set
- jeweler’s saw frame
- saw blades in #3 and 4
- beeswax for saw blades
- clip-on bench pin
- sandpaper in 100-600 grit
- ring mandrel with mandrel stand
- plate shears
- dividers
- rawhide or plastic mallet

(My favorites are nylon)
- ball peen hammer
- planishing hammer
- small clamp-on vise
- accurate metal ruler with both inches and mm
- bezel pusher
- burnisher
- mortician’s wax for holding stones
- gauge wheel

Extras (here’s where you can really go crazy - these are totally optional at first)
- riveting hammer
- bracelet mandrel
- aviation snips
- calipers
- ring holder
- t-square
- oval/square mandrels
- bezel mandrel
- dapping set
- disc cutter
- stake and anvils
- jump ring mandrel set
- scale (particularly good if you’re going to be doing model making)
- tumbler (ask me for recommendation)
- Oakite for tumbler
- oxidizing compound such as liver of sulfur
- drill for twisting wire
- drawplate
- draw tongs
- and many more glorious tools!

Most tools and equipment are made in either Europe or India. European are often much more expensive, but the quality can be much better. Indian products are less expensive and in some cases almost as good, but there are real differences depending on the tools. Here are my thoughts on where to spend money, and where to cut costs:

Buy quality American or European:
- large files
- shears
- wire cutters
- dividers
- hammers for forming
- saw frame
- drill bit
- disc cutters

Save money by buying:
- inexpensive small file sets from India
- a used dapping set
- inexpensive saw blades (they might break more for a beginner, but if you’re good, it won’t matter)
- pliers (Indian ones are fine and cost about $5 each)
- bench blocks from India
- mandrels (Metalliferous often has a nice selection of used – much cheaper!)
- go to Target or wherever and get a crock pot - no need for something specialized here
- a sharp Brad (nail) can make a good center punch if you don’t want to buy one
- get a cheap utility ball peen hammer for grunt work - used ones can be had for about $3
- make a soldering pick/scribe out of pieces of old coat hangers sharpened at the ends

And my best advice of all for any complicated new project in silver or gold? Do it in copper first!!

 

metal, Chik, beads, jewelry making, chick, silver, soldering, metalsmithing, tools, metaliferous